For generations, crabbing has been a favourite family pastime in Abersoch, the jetty at high tide providing rich pickings for amateur fishermen. Few childhood memories evoke a borderline hysteria quite like that first catch, nor the following hysteria when someone inevitably kicks over the bucket! The crabs themselves, however, are never substantial enough to satisfy even the littlest of appetites, and thus mercifully released back onto the beach to live another day.

There’s no dish quite as synonymous with Abersoch than a freshly dressed crab, so for those of us looking to not starve tonight, Arthur Jones of Bwyd Môr Abersoch and his boat are on hand, ready to head out onto more fruitful pastures. ‘My best childhood memories are of going out with my father and brother who were both fishermen,’ he explains. His mother, meanwhile, stayed ashore to prepare the crabs. ‘I was much more interested in going out on the boat. She would take all day to dress them and had the same regular customers who came to her year after year.’

‘Now we continue that tradition with Bwyd Môr Abersoch – processing our own crabs for the local restaurants and cafés, not forgetting the popular Terry’s Butchers in the village. We also sell direct to customers from our outlet at home in Llain, Sarn Bach, Abersoch.’

With its clean, clear waters, the areas around Abersoch are ideal for fishing everything from crabs and lobsters to dogfish and mackerel. ‘I have been fishing out of Abersoch for over 40 years, and since taking early retirement from my role as station officer at Abersoch Fire Station and Bosun at S.C.Y.C four years ago, I find I am now busier than ever with the fishing.’

Crabs are quite fascinating creatures, the best-known fact being, of course, that they walk sideways – but did you know they also swim sideways? Their average lifespan is between three and four years – unless it’s had the misfortune of crossing paths with Arthur. But as a species, crabs are far older, having been around since the Jurassic period a whopping 200 million years ago.

Arthur describes an average work day. ‘Weather permitting, I fish for around eight hours a day in Cardigan Bay, mainly around St. Tudwal’s Island and the Cilan Headland. Crabs are caught in parlour pots, and I use various types of bait depending on availability; plaice, gurnard, or herring. I fish alone.’ It may seem like a lonely enterprise, but he says, ‘The dolphins always come and find me in the morning and keep me company!’ And with his many-legged friends on hand for a chat, there’s no place he’d rather be. ‘I love being out at sea in the fresh air – you never tire of the scenery, from the mountains of Snowdonia to the spectacular Llŷn Peninsula coastline.’

There are more than 4,500 species of crab to be found in the world’s oceans, ranging from the tiny pea crab – measuring in at between 0.27 and 0.47 inches long – to the Japanese spider crab, coming in at 13 feet from claw to claw. Though we’re sure Arthur could handle such a monster if he set his mind to it, this is Abersoch, and so he’ll settle for the brown crabs(dressed back at base by wife, Annwen), velvet crabs (used by local restaurants to make a bisque), and spider crabs, which there is less demand for.

Indeed, we’re certainly not in Japan, and so the great Welsh weather is always something to contend with. With crab season lasting from March right through ‘til December, there’s no escaping the odd morning when Arthur would rather just stay in bed. ‘I’ve never dreamed of an office job,’ he says, ‘though I’m not too keen on rainy days!’

When they’re not busy trying to fight Arthur off, crabs can be feisty little fellows⁠—usually when there’s a woman involved⁠—and it’s not uncommon to lose a claw or leg. In time, however, the limb will grow back,⁠ which is just as well⁠, because when they aren’t getting some Rocky action in, their claws can also be used as chopsticks. Chinese for tea, anyone?

Just like his father before him, Arthur has enjoyed taking his own children out on the boat, and looks forward to showing the ropes to new family members in the future. ‘I took my granddaughter for her first trip this summer,’ he says.

The legacy of Arthur’s parents is evident in the success of Bwyd Môr Abersoch. Remembering the customers who came to his mother year after year, he notes how some of their children and even grandchildren come to buy from him today. In an age when university is suggested as the only path for young people, there is much to be said for passing skills down from generation to generation. Though plenty of new faces move onto the Peninsula each year, lured like the crabs by its clear waters, it’s this sense of heritage and community which knits the town of Abersoch together.

With fresh crab such an iconic part of the Abersoch menu, there’s no one who knows better how to enjoy it than Arthur. It’s delicious spread over bread and butter, shredded over a salad, mixed through some pasta… But Arthur’s favourite? ‘Crab cakes!’

After hearing about Bwyd Môr Abersoch, are you looking to try seafood during your stay in Abersoch? Don’t forget to check out places to eat in Abersoch

Crab Cake Recipe – Makes 10

Ingredients

• 3 spring onions
• ½ a bunch of fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 large egg
• 750g of Arthur’s crabmeat, cooked
• 300g mashed potatoes
• 1 teaspoon ground white pepper
• 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• plain flour, for dusting
• olive oil
• watercress
• tartar sauce

Method

• Trim and finely chop the spring onions, and finely chop the parsley. Beat the egg.
• Combine the crabmeat, potatoes, spring onion, parsley, white pepper, cayenne and egg in a bowl with a little sea salt.
• Refrigerate for 30 minutes, then shape into 6cm cakes.
• Dust with flour and shallow-fry in oil over a medium heat for about 5 minutes each side or until golden-brown.
• Serve with pinches of watercress and a dollop of tartar sauce.

Written by Rhiannon Jenkins for the winter issue of Abersoch Magazine. SUBSCRIBE HERE
Photos provided by Outwest Image

Want to get involved in some Abersoch crabbing? During the summer, the Abersoch Regatta host the annual crab catching competition so all the family can get involved. Take a look at our Abersoch Events for this year.